Cruise overview
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About Amsterdam
Amsterdam combines the unrivaled beauty of the 17th-century Golden Age city center with plenty of museums and art of the highest order, not to mention a remarkably laid-back atmosphere. It all comes together to make this one of the world's most appealing and offbeat metropolises in the world. Built on a latticework of concentric canals like an aquatic rainbow, Amsterdam is known as the City of Canals—but it's no Venice, content to live on moonlight serenades and former glory. Quite the contrary: on nearly every street here you'll find old and new side by side—quiet corners where time seems to be holding its breath next to streets like neon-lit Kalverstraat, and Red Light ladies strutting by the city's oldest church. Indeed, Amsterdam has as many lovely facets as a 40-carat diamond polished by one of the city's gem cutters. It's certainly a metropolis, but a rather small and very accessible one. Locals tend to refer to it as a big village, albeit one that happens to pack the cultural wallop of a major world destination. There are scores of concerts every day, numerous museums, summertime festivals, and, of course, a legendary year-round party scene. It's pretty much impossible to resist Amsterdam's charms. With 7,000 registered monuments, most of which began as the residences and warehouses of humble merchants, set on 160 man-made canals, and traversed by 1,500 or so bridges, Amsterdam has the largest historical inner city in Europe. Its famous circle of waterways, the grachtengordel, was a 17th-century urban expansion plan for the rich and is a lasting testament to the city’s Golden Age. This town is endearing because of its kinder, gentler nature—but a reputation for championing sex, drugs, and rock ’n’ roll does not alone account for Amsterdam's being one of the most popular destinations in Europe: consider that within a single square mile the city harbors some of the greatest achievements in Western art, from Rembrandt to Van Gogh. Not to mention that this is one of Europe's great walking cities, with so many of its treasures in the untouted details: tiny alleyways barely visible on the map, hidden garden courtyards, shop windows, floating houseboats, hidden hofjes(courtyards with almshouses), sudden vistas of church spires, and gabled roofs that look like so many unframed paintings. And don’t forget that the joy lies in details: elaborate gables and witty gable stones denoting the trade of a previous owner. Keep in mind that those XXX symbols you see all over town are not a mark of the city's triple-X reputation. They're part of Amsterdam's official coat of arms—three St. Andrew's crosses, believed to represent the three dangers that have traditionally plagued the city: flood, fire, and pestilence. The coat's motto ("Valiant, determined, compassionate") was introduced in 1947 by Queen Wilhelmina in remembrance of the 1941 February Strike in Amsterdam—the first time in Europe that non-Jewish people protested against the persecution of Jews by the Nazi regime.
About Kinderdijk
About Cologne
Cologne is a city in western Germany located across the Rhine river. It is the oldest in Germany, dating back 2000 years and is considered the region’s cultural hub. The city is known for its iconic landmark of the twin-spired Cologne Cathedral set against the reconstructed Old Town buildings. When in Old Town, visit the historic Old Town Hall and the Roman Church Great St Martin, or take time out and sit at one of the traditional breweries and enjoy the scenery around you. Historical sites such as the Roman Dionysus mosaic and the medieval Overstolzenhaus are worth a visit too. Another iconic sight in Cologne is at Hohenzollern Bridge. Here, local and tourist couples affix padlocks to the railings of the bridge and swear their loyalty to each other, they then throw the key into the Rhein to ensure everlasting love. Cologne is home to over 30 stages providing cabaret, free ensembles, theatre and dance and also celebrates its openly gay culture.
About Koblenz
Located in the West of the country, Koblenz is one of the oldest cities in Germany. It is situated on both banks of the river Rhine, at its confluence with the Moselle River. The beginnings of Koblenz can be traced back to its military beginnings around 8 BC. The city is rich in its history and heritage and is easily explored on foot. Take the cable car crossing over the river Rhine for spectacular aerial views or enjoy the city from the one thousand year old fortress, Ehrenbreitstein. The upper middle Rhine Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its unique landscape can be enjoyed and discovered through the interactive multimedia journey at the Romanticum. Historical and architectural sites of interest include Stolzenfels Castle, the Electoral Palace of Koblenz and Old Town. From the romantic winding streets and small squares of Old Town, stroll through the alleyways from the Church of the Holy Virgin to the St Kastor Basilica and enjoy the picturesque buildings and squares along the way. Koblenz is also very popular for its Riesling and strong Spatburgunder wines since the Romans introduced it two thousand years ago.
About Miltenberg
Miltenberg is a city located in Bavaria and Southern part of Germany. Located on the banks of the river Maine the city grew from its medieval roots through Viniculture, wine trade, fishery, and general river traffic, into the established and preserved town of today. Visit the Museum Stadt Miltenberg, housed in the half timbered house called the Alte Amtskellerei (The Provost’s Office) and discover the town’s history through collections depicting culture back to the Romans. A visit to castle Miltenberg is also recommended. The castle dates back to the 11th century and is now owned by the city administration. With the castle in need of rehabilitation, the Museum Burg Miltenberg was opened to exhibit classic icons and contemporary art in a historical and significant setting. The keep of the castle, which reaches twenty seven metres high, offers picturesque views of the Main Valley below and is the perfect setting to relax and enjoy some refreshments.
About Würzburg
Würzburg is a city in Bavaria in southern Germany. It is located on the River Main and is famous for its lavish baroque architecture and Franconian wine. The Residence Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is highly recommended. It is a well known example of Baroque architecture with its acclaimed staircase, impressive frescos and imperial hall. Other impressive sites in Würzburg include the towering fortress of Festung Marienberg, the Alt Mainbrücke old bridge, which offers ideal views of the Marienberg, Dom St. Kilian cathedral and the many churches of Würzburg including the Romanesque Neumünster. Many of these sites have their own museums for visitors to learn of the history or view unique collections. Other museums of interest are the Mineralogical Museum, exhibiting the world of minerals and stones, and the Botanical Gardens, with various greenhouses and outdoor areas to enjoy. Wine lovers will find an abundance of wineries in Würzburg, offering cellar tours and wine tasting as well as traditional Bavarian cuisines and hospitality. Enjoy wine soup, Gerupfter (cheese spread) and Sauerbraten (braised beef in wine) in a friendly traditional wine tavern.
About Bamberg
Bamberg is a German town located over a landscape of seven hills and the confluence of Regnitz and Main rivers. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre with Old Town home to structures dating back to the 11th century. An iconic landmark to visit in Bamberg is the town hall Altes Rathaus, located on an island in the Regnitz and covered in murals. Bamberg Cathedral, with its four towers and numerous stone carvings, is a striking example of Romanesque architecture. Head to the Market Gardeners District and visit the historical houses where centuries ago the town gardeners would grow and export produce such as onions, seeds and liquorice. In the town centre and heart of Little Venice, the rivers and arched bridges connecting the island city are reminiscent of Venice, with a lively atmosphere and modern shops set in historical surroundings. After a day shopping, head to one of the many Brewery pubs for some popular German beer. Bamberg is famous for its beer and is where its name originated from, with the town being populated by nine traditional breweries.
About Nuremberg
Nuremberg is a medieval city located in northern Bavaria in Germany. It is Bavaria's second largest city and is noted for its iconic red roofed buildings and medieval architecture. The imperial Castle overlooks Nuremberg and was one of the most important fortifications of the Roman Empire. For more significant cultural history, the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, one of the largest cultural history museums in the German speaking world, offers visitors exhibitions from Prehistoric all the way to present day. Walking tours around the city offer an enjoyable and active way to learn of Nuremberg’s history and culture. Through Old Town, discover fountains, wells, churches, and art treasures, as well as learning of the colourful past and cosmopolitan present of the city and its people. Nuremberg is also home to one of the oldest Christmas markets in Germany, the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt, where visitors can purchase traditional handmade decorations and enjoy the famous gingerbread, mulled wine, and grilled sausage from over one hundred and eighty wooden stalls.
About Regensburg
Regensburg is a medieval city of Bavaria in southeast Germany. It is situated on the northern point of the Danube River at its confluence with the Regen and Naab rivers. The city is famous for its iconic 12th Century stone bridge and sixteen arches, crossing the Danube into Old Town and is the oldest preserved bridge in Germany. Regensburg is also noted for its 13th Century Regensburg Cathedral and Gothic twin spires that feature prominently on the city’s skyline. Recently awarded UNESCO World Heritage status, the city is home to many preserved sites. Visit the the 2nd Century Porta Praetoria which served as the north gate to a Roman camp and St Peter’s Cathedral, with its French Gothic architecture. Also the 18th Century Thurn and Taxis Palace and the Old Town Hall, which is now home to the Imperial Diet Museum, are also worth a visit. Regensburg benefits from lots of parks and gardens for visitors to relax in, as well as walks and cycle paths along the banks of the rivers.
About Passau
Passau is a German city located in the Southeast of Germany on the Austrian border. It is situated at the confluence of the rivers Danube, Inn and Ilz. The Three Rivers City, as it’s also known, is unique for its three contrasting currents of blue, green and black. Old Town of Passau is home to towering buildings of striking architecture: the majestic fortress Veste Oberhaus, the Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf and St Stephen's Cathedral. Many of Passau’s attractions can be found in this area, including the New Bishop’s Residence, the Gothic Town Hall, as well as many churches and museums. Visitors can stroll along the riverfront promenades and romantic lanes whilst enjoying the picturesque landscape. For modern art, The Museum of Modern Art and Glass Museum Passau are recommended as they offer something a bit different. Theatre and cabaret are a popular evening pastime, with performances at the former Prince Bishopric Theatre or some lively cabaret and Jazz at the Scharfrichterhaus. Visitors will also find many traditional local Bavarian and Austrian cafes and restaurants offering a cosy atmosphere with home cooked food from local produce.
About Melk
Melk is an Austrian town situated on the River Danube. Located west of Vienna, the town is mostly famous for its 11th Century Melk Abbey, a magnificent monastery built high above the town. Melk Abbey is the largest example of Baroque architecture in the Wachau Valley, with the valley itself awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2000. Its steep terraced vineyards mean vinters cultivate with traditional manual practices and the springtime sees this unique landscape covered in apricot tree blossoms. Strolling around the streets of Melk Old Town, visitors will find the Town Hall Square, the Main Square, the old Post Office, now a local museum, Old Abbey Tavern, and Kremser Strasse. River cruises, self-guided walking tours and cycle tours are also extremely popular around Melk, as the Wachau Valley offers unique landscape to be explored and enjoyed. Art festivals and Baroque music is celebrated each year with the Melk Baroque Days, an international festival.
About Krems
Krems an der Donau is a city in Northeast Austria located approximately forty three miles from Vienna. The city is situated on the banks of the river Danube and is one of the oldest of the Wachau Valley. Krems prides itself on historical preservation and has recently been awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status. The history of the city dates back more than a thousand years with evidence found in its streets, squares, monasteries, churches and fortifications. Krems is also a modern city which celebrates its contemporary art and modern literature as well as being a leader in biotech application research. Exploring Krems is easily done on foot with city walking tours being very popular. Discover Old Krems and the Art Mile and learn about the city’s rich history at Museum Krems. As with many wine cities, food and drink is in abundance with popular restaurants and wine bars housed in historical buildings which enhance and deepen the dining and wine tasting experience.
About Vienna
Vienna is the capital and largest city of Austria. Located on the Danube River in the East of the country, the city is renowned for its strong music heritage and rich culture, and is the largest German speaking city in the world, outside of Berlin. In 2001, Vienna was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and boasts magnificent architecture. The city is home to over 27 castles and 150 palaces including the symbolic Gothic St Stephen’s Cathedral and the iconic Schönbrunn Palace. Art and music are in abundance and all tastes are catered for. Live music venues offer everything from Rock to Opera. Enjoy world class performances at Vienna State Opera and experience the epicentre of international concert life at Musikverein. Modern and historical art can be found in indoor and outdoor spaces around the city, and a visit to the famous Kunsthistorisches Museum (KHM) is highly recommended. Enjoy views of the city from the Danube Tower and the Giant Ferris Wheel, then relax in the ample cosy coffee houses, cafes, bars and restaurants where traditional and international cuisines are served, as well as the locally produced wines.
About Vienna
Vienna is the capital and largest city of Austria. Located on the Danube River in the East of the country, the city is renowned for its strong music heritage and rich culture, and is the largest German speaking city in the world, outside of Berlin. In 2001, Vienna was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and boasts magnificent architecture. The city is home to over 27 castles and 150 palaces including the symbolic Gothic St Stephen’s Cathedral and the iconic Schönbrunn Palace. Art and music are in abundance and all tastes are catered for. Live music venues offer everything from Rock to Opera. Enjoy world class performances at Vienna State Opera and experience the epicentre of international concert life at Musikverein. Modern and historical art can be found in indoor and outdoor spaces around the city, and a visit to the famous Kunsthistorisches Museum (KHM) is highly recommended. Enjoy views of the city from the Danube Tower and the Giant Ferris Wheel, then relax in the ample cosy coffee houses, cafes, bars and restaurants where traditional and international cuisines are served, as well as the locally produced wines.
About Budapest
Budapest is the capital city of Hungary and is located over the River Danube. It is one of the largest cities in the European Union and much of its historical sites have been awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Originally formed in 1873 by the joining of Buda, Pest and Old Buda, the city suffered heavy destruction during World War II and was rebuilt into the country's political, cultural and commercial hub it is now. Bridges and railways connect the city over the Danube, including the six small islands situated on the river themselves. Some of Budapest’s UNESCO World Heritage sites include Chain Bridge, Budapest Parliament, the striking Matthias church and the iconic Royal Palace visible from every location within Budapest City. The Castle Hills district architecture represents over a thousand years of the city's history with examples of Roman, Turkish, Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau styles. Budapest also has a rich Jewish heritage and is home to the largest synagogue in Europe. The city has an abundance of restaurants offering international cuisines, as well as traditional Hungarian dishes ,including goulash soup, a very popular lunchtime dish. Hungarians enjoy their coffee so a traditional cafe is never hard to find.
About Budapest
Budapest is the capital city of Hungary and is located over the River Danube. It is one of the largest cities in the European Union and much of its historical sites have been awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Originally formed in 1873 by the joining of Buda, Pest and Old Buda, the city suffered heavy destruction during World War II and was rebuilt into the country's political, cultural and commercial hub it is now. Bridges and railways connect the city over the Danube, including the six small islands situated on the river themselves. Some of Budapest’s UNESCO World Heritage sites include Chain Bridge, Budapest Parliament, the striking Matthias church and the iconic Royal Palace visible from every location within Budapest City. The Castle Hills district architecture represents over a thousand years of the city's history with examples of Roman, Turkish, Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau styles. Budapest also has a rich Jewish heritage and is home to the largest synagogue in Europe. The city has an abundance of restaurants offering international cuisines, as well as traditional Hungarian dishes ,including goulash soup, a very popular lunchtime dish. Hungarians enjoy their coffee so a traditional cafe is never hard to find.
About Kalocsa
About Osijek
About Belgrade
About Golubac
About Vidin
About Ruse
About Bucharest
Bucharest, in southern Romania, is the country's capital and commercial center. Its iconic landmark is the massive, communist-era Palatul Parlamentului government building, which has 1,100 rooms. Nearby, the historic Lipscani district is home to an energetic nightlife scene as well as tiny Eastern Orthodox Stavropoleos Church and 15th-century Curtea Veche Palace, where Prince Vlad III (“The Impaler”) once ruled.
- Stateroom size: 445 sq ft (includes private veranda)
- River-view suite with private wraparound balcony offering 270-degree views off a spacious, separate sitting room, and French balcony (floor-to-ceiling sliding glass door) in sleeping quarters
- 12 PM Embarkation
- 12 PM priority stateroom access
- Queen-size Viking Explorer Bed (optional twin-bed configuration) with luxury linens & pillows
- Free Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary)
- 42" flat-screen TV with infotainment system featuring Movies On Demand, CNBC, CNN, FOX & more
- Additional 42" flat-screen TV in sitting room
- 110/220 volt outlets & USB ports
- Large private bathroom with spacious glass-enclosed shower, heated floor, anti-fog mirror & hair dryer
- Premium Freyja® toiletries
- Plush robes & slippers
- Telephone, safe, refrigerator
- Individual climate control
- Bottled water replenished daily
- Welcome champagne; mini-bar with wine, beer & soft drinks (replenished daily); daily fruit plate
- Binoculars
- Personal coffee machine with premium coffee & tea selections
- Stateroom steward & twice-daily housekeeping
- Complimentary in-room breakfast service
- Complimentary laundry & shoe shine services
- Silver Spirits beverage package included
- Private arrival/departure transfer in destination
- Under-bed suitcase storage space
- Roomy wardrobe with wooden hangers
- Complimentary Viking Air Plus
- Stateroom size: 275 sq ft (includes private veranda)
- River-view suite with full-size veranda off a spacious, separate sitting room, and French Balcony (floor-to-ceiling sliding glass door) in sleeping quarters
- 12 PM Embarkation
- 12 PM priority stateroom access
- Queen-size Viking Explorer Bed (optional twin-bed configuration) with luxury linens & pillows
- Free Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary)
- 42" flat-screen TV with infotainment system featuring Movies On Demand, CNBC, CNN, FOX & more
- Additional 32" flat-screen TV in sitting room
- 110/220 volt outlets & USB ports
- Large private bathroom with spacious glass-enclosed shower, heated floor, anti-fog mirror & hair dryer
- Premium Freyja® toiletries
- Plush robes & slippers
- Telephone, safe, refrigerator
- Individual climate control
- Bottled water replenished daily
- Welcome champagne; mini-bar with wine, beer & soft drinks (replenished daily); daily fruit plate
- Binoculars
- Stateroom steward & twice-daily housekeeping
- Complimentary laundry & shoe shine services
- Under-bed suitcase storage space
- Roomy wardrobe with wooden hangers
- Complimentary Viking Air Plus
- Stateroom size: 205 sq ft (includes private veranda)
- River-view stateroom with floor-to-ceiling sliding glass door opening to full-size veranda
- 12 PM Embarkation
- 3 PM stateroom access
- Queen-size Viking Explorer Bed (optional twin-bed configuration) with luxury linens & pillows
- Free Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary)
- 42" flat-screen TV with infotainment system featuring Movies On Demand, CNBC, CNN, FOX & more
- 110/220 volt outlets & USB ports
- Private bathroom with spacious glass-enclosed shower, heated floor, anti-fog mirror & hair dryer
- Premium Freyja® toiletries
- Plush robes & slippers (upon request)
- Telephone, safe, refrigerator
- Individual climate control
- Bottled water replenished daily
- Stateroom steward & twice-daily housekeeping
- Under-bed suitcase storage space
- Roomy wardrobe with wooden hangers
- Stateroom size: 135 sq ft
- River-view stateroom with French balcony (floor-to-ceiling sliding glass door)
- 12 PM Embarkation
- 3 PM stateroom access
- Queen-size Viking Explorer Bed (optional twin-bed configuration) with luxury linens & pillows
- Free Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary)
- 42" flat-screen TV with infotainment system featuring Movies On Demand, CNBC, CNN, FOX & more
- 110/220 volt outlets & USB ports
- Private bathroom with spacious glass-enclosed shower, heated floor, anti-fog mirror & hair dryer
- Premium Freyja® toiletries
- Plush robes & slippers (upon request)
- Telephone, safe, refrigerator
- Individual climate control
- Bottled water replenished daily
- Stateroom steward & twice-daily housekeeping
- Under-bed suitcase storage space
- Roomy wardrobe with wooden hangers
- Stateroom size: 150 sq ft
- River-view stateroom with half-height picture window
- 12 PM Embarkation
- 3 PM stateroom access
- Queen-size Viking Explorer Bed (optional twin-bed configuration) with luxury linens & pillows
- Free Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary)
- 42" flat-screen TV with infotainment system featuring Movies On Demand, CNBC, CNN, FOX & more
- 110/220 volt outlets & USB ports
- Private bathroom with accessible shower, heated floor, anti-fog mirror & hair dryer
- Premium Freyja® toiletries
- Plush robes & slippers (upon request)
- Telephone, safe, refrigerator
- Individual climate control
- Bottled water replenished daily
- Stateroom steward & twice-daily housekeeping
- Under-bed suitcase storage space
- Roomy wardrobe with wooden hangers
Viking Lif
Bringer of Life to a New World
Her name means “life.” In Norse mythology, Lif and the male Lifthrasir are two mortals who are foretold that they will survive Ragnarok, the end of the world as it is known, by hiding in the forest of Hodmimir. After the flames have abated, Lif and Lifthrasir emerge to discover that everything has been destroyed, and it is up to them to begin anew and repopulate a fertile new world.
Ship Facts
Speed | 15 | ||||||||
Width | 29 | ||||||||
Length | 135 | ||||||||
Capacity | 190 | ||||||||
Currency | EUR | ||||||||
Language | en | ||||||||
Crew Count | 50 | ||||||||
Deck Count | 4 | ||||||||
Refit Year | |||||||||
Cabin Count | 95 | ||||||||
Launch Year | 2014 | ||||||||
Gross Tonnage | 5000 | ||||||||
Electrical Plugs |
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Large Cabin Count | 0 | ||||||||
Wheelchair Cabin Count | 0 |
Sun Deck
- Shaded Sitting Area
- Putting Green
- Herb Garden
- Walking Track
Upper Deck
- Internet Room
- Library
- Bar
- Buffet
- Observation Lounge
- Aquavit Terrace
- Explorer Suites (Cat ES)
- Veranda Staterooms (A, B)
- Veranda Suites (Cat AA)
- French Balcony Staterooms (C, D)
Middle Deck
- Shop
- Guest Services
- Restaurant
- Veranda Staterooms (Cat A, B)
- French Balcony Stateroom (Cat c, D)
Main Deck
- Standard Staterooms (Cat E)
- Standard Staterooms (Cat F)
It’s been said that the best way to know a culture is through its food and wine. Both engage your senses and provide a window into the traditions and essence of a land. Viking's trained chefs are passionate about food and committed to providing a complete culinary experience. The ships’ dining areas are hospitable and inviting; the service is friendly, attentive and personalised. Menu selections include regional dishes and contemporary cuisine to offer a variety of flavours designed to suit any palate. You have choices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Not just in food selection, but also in where and how you enjoy them. Greet the morning with a croissant and cappuccino on deck, or begin your day with a sumptuous buffet breakfast. Have a casual lunch or dinner al fresco, or join friends in the restaurant. Open seating allows you to mingle with the same guests every evening or meet someone new each day.
The Restaurant
Gaze at breathtaking scenery through the Restaurant’s panoramic windows as you dine on regional specialties and contemporary cuisine. The atmosphere is casual yet elegant, with high-quality table linens, china, cutlery and glassware at every meal.
Aquavit Terrace
Revolutionary in concept and design, this spacious outdoor seating area at the bow of the ship is perfect for having a casual meal al fresco, meeting friends for drinks or reading a book, all while enjoying breathtaking views and basking in the fresh air.
As with your stateroom, the public areas are designed to make the most of the splendid views. Whether from the sun deck, the Lounge or the restaurant, a river cruise provides uninterrupted sightseeing, from the time the morning mist rises from the water to when the setting sun announces the end to another remarkable day.
The Bar
Located in the Lounge, the bar is lively and inviting - a gathering place for guests to view the scenery, have a drink and catch up on the day with friends.
Library
Located in the heart of the Upper deck adjacent to the Aquavit Terrace, the library has comfortable seating and excellent reading light. Their ships’ libraries carry approximately 80 books, in various languages but mostly English, and several games such as chess, backgammon and playing cards. Pick up a magazine or board game and enjoy it in the lounge just steps away.
Onboard Boutique
Forget to bring something? Looking for a magazine or some gift items? The onboard boutique on the main deck has everything you need to make your voyage comfortable and convenient.
The Lounge
The lounge has a baby grand piano, where a pianist plays classical and modern melodies during cocktail hour and sometimes at lunch. The music drifts to and through the Aquavit Terrace -a nice accompaniment on warm, sunny days.
The cruise director hosts a variety of informal evening entertainment in the lounge; from pub trivia nights to the cruise slideshow cum sales pitch, it's all done in a spirit of fun and inclusivity. The lounge is also equipped with large pull-down movie screens and surround-sound for movie nights, and regional performers occasionally come onboard to provide additional entertainment.
Reception
Located on the Middle Deck